The handsomely renovated castle, Osaka-jo , dominates Osaka's heart just as it did centuries ago, while the venerable Shitenno-ji and Sumiyoshi Taisha hark back to the city's past importance as a religious centre. In contrast, bizarre modern buildings, such as the spaceship-like Osaka Dome sports stadium and the fantastic aquarium at the Tempozan Harbour Village, thrust forth from the urban sprawl like shiny gems; they have recently been joined by a large-scale theme park, Universal Studios Japan .

But what is really special about Osaka is its people, who speak one of Japan's more earthy dialects, Osaka-ben , and are as friendly as Kyoto folk can be frosty. Osakans may greet each other saying "Mo kari-makka?" (Are you making any money?), but they also know how to enjoy themselves once work has stopped. Whereas Tokyo has shut down its once thriving Harajuku band scene, Osakans still thrash out rock tunes by the castle every Sunday, while across town in Tennoji-Koen, you'll find entertaining al fresco karaoke song-and-dance shows. Downtown Shinsaibashi is an eternal fancy-dress parade of matronly shoppers and boozy bons viveurs , where bequiffed lads cast their nets for mini-skirted girls on the Ebisu-bashi (fishing bridge). In a city which cultivated high arts , such as Bunraku puppetry, the locals also have a gift for lowlife comedy; Takeshi "Beat" Kitano, the internationally famous film director, started his career as a comedian in Osaka, while "Knock" Yokoyama, another retired funny man, was elected prefectural governor in the late 1990s, before resigning over a sexual harassment case in late 1999. Osaka is also one of Japan's great food cities, but Osakans are not precious about their cuisine, a typical local dish being takoyaki , battered octopus balls, usually sold as a street snack.

Osaka also feels a more welcoming place for foreigners. It has Japan's largest community of Koreans and a growing gaijin population. There's also a willingness to face up to uncomfortable social issues, exemplified by the city's admirable civil rights museum, Liberty Osaka , which among other things focuses on Japan's untouchables, the Burakumin.

If you want to escape Osaka's urban landscape and preoccupations for a day, take a trip out to Takarazuka , home of the eponymous musical drama troupe. As well as taking in one of the all-female troupe's glitzy shows, you can check out the imaginative artwork at the Tezuka Osamu Manga Museum , a showcase for local artist Tezuka, widely regarded as the god of manga (comic books).