Though the situation is improving, Japan is not an easy place to travel around for anyone using a wheelchair, or for those who find it difficult to negotiate stairs or walk long distances. Most train and subway stations have seemingly endless corridors, and few have escalators or lifts; the sheer crush of people can also be a problem at times. It's usually possible to organize assistance at stations, but you'll need a Japanese-speaker to make the arrangements. That said, Shinkansen trains and a few other services, such as the Narita Express from Narita International airport into Tokyo, have spaces for wheelchair users, but you'll need to make reservations well in advance. For travelling short distances, taxis are an obvious solution, though few drivers will offer help getting in or out of the car.

When it comes to accommodation , the international chains or modern Western-style hotels, as well as some of the newer youth hostels, are most likely to provide facilities such as fully adapted rooms and lifts. Similarly, most modern shopping complexes, museums and other public buildings are equipped with ramps, wide doors and accessible toilets. For further information, including links to other resources, take a look at the Global Access Web site ( www.geocities.com/Paris/1502/index.html ) or contact the organizations .

Disability has always been something of an uncomfortable topic in Japan, with disabled people often hidden away from public view. In recent years, however, there has been a certain shift in public opinion, particularly following the publication in 1998 of Ototake Hirotada's No One's Perfect (Kodansha International), the upbeat, forthright autobiography of a 23-year-old student born with truncated limbs. An instant bestseller, the book looks set to shake up Japanese perceptions of disability.