One of the most pleasant ways of travelling around the island nation of Japan is by ferry . If you have the time, the overnight journeys to and from the main island Honshu to Hokkaido in the north, and Kyushu and Shikoku in the south, are highly recommended. A particularly good-value service is between Niigata on Honshu and Otaru on Hokkaido, a relaxing eighteen-hour cruise costing as little as ¥5250. Also memorable are the cruises across the beautiful Inland Sea, or from Kyushu to the Southwest Islands and Okinawa. If you only have a little time, try a short hop, say to one of the islands of the Inland Sea, or from Niigata to Sado-ga-shima.

There's little reason to shell out extra for the first-class sections of ferries, which provide more luxurious accommodation and facilities, as second class is fine. On the overnight ferries in particular, the cheapest fares, which entitle you to a sleeping space on the floor of a large room with up to a hundred other passengers, are a bargain compared to train and plane fares to the same destinations. For example, the overnight ferry fare from Oarai, two hours north of Tokyo, to Tomakomai, around an hour south of Sapporo on Hokkaido, can be as low as ¥6000. Even if you pay extra for a bed in a shared or private berth, it's still cheaper than the train and you'll have a very comfortable cruise into the bargain. Ferries are also an excellent way of transporting a bicycle or motorbike (though you'll pay a small supplement for these) and many also take cars.

Ferry schedules are subject to seasonal changes and also vary according to the weather, so for current details of times and prices it's best to consult the local tourist information office. The Japan Long Distance Ferry Association, Lino Building, 2-1-1 Uchisaiwaicho Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo (tel 03/3501-0889), also publishes a free annual English-language brochure, detailing current schedules and fares.