Although you're unlikely to want to cycle around the grimy, traffic-clogged streets of Japan's main cities, in the smaller towns and countryside a bike is a great way to get from A to B while seeing plenty en route. Outside of the main island, Honshu, cycle touring is a very popular activity over the long summer vacation with students. Hokkaido, in particular, is a cyclist's dream, with excellent roads through often stunning scenery and a network of ultra-cheap (but basic) cyclists' accommodation.

In many tourist towns you can rent bikes from outlets beside or near the train station. Youth hostels often rent out bikes too, usually at the most competitive rates. You can buy a brand-new bike in Japan for under ¥20,000 but you wouldn't want to use it for anything more than getting around town; for sturdy touring and mountain bikes, hunt out a specialist bike shop or bring your own. Although repair shops are nationwide, for foreign models it's best to bring essential spare parts with you. And, despite Japan's low crime rate, a small but significant section of the Japanese public treats bikes as common property; if you don't want to lose it, make sure your bike is well chained whenever you leave it.

If you plan to take your bike on a train or bus, ensure you have a bike bag in which to parcel it up; on trains you're also supposed pay a special bike transport supplement of ¥270 (ask for a temawarihin kippu ), although ticket inspectors may not always check.

If you are planning a serious cycling tour of Japan, an excellent investment is Cycling Japan (¥2200; Kodansha), a handy practical guide detailing many touring routes around the country. The book is edited by Brian Harrell, a local cyclist who also edits the Oikaze cycling newsletter, available from 2-24-3 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. There's also some useful cycling information on www.outdoorjapan.com